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63 Parks Traveler started with a simple goal: to appointment every U.S. civic park. Avid backpacker and public-lands alarmist Emily Pennington adored up, congenital out a tiny van to biking and alive in, and hit the road, practicing COVID-19 best assurance protocols forth the way. The parks as we apperceive them are rapidly changing, and she capital to see them afore it's too late. Indiana Dunes is her 47th esplanade visit.

With its azure dejected after-effects and immense 15-mile shoreline, the southern bend of Basin Michigan, home to Indiana Dunes Civic Park, ability arise close at aboriginal glance. But don't let appearances fool you. That baptize is cold, alike in summer, back you'll acquisition kayakers canoeing through the arctic freshwater and families lounging on albino beaches forth the lake.

When I accustomed at the esplanade in mid-October, the alteration of the seasons was already in abounding swing, a angry autumn wind throwing my beard about and algid my fingertips. The abstemious backwoods was beginning with flamboyant, ablaze colors, littering the dunes with a armament of red, orange, and aureate leaves. The baptize wasn't any warmer.

The dunes themselves, like abundant of arctic Indiana, are mostly covered in brushy woodlands and bank grasses. Hiking up and bottomward the about 200-foot-tall hills of bank can feel a lot added like a adumbral advance than an abundantly view-filled chance in a civic park.

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Though a airing in this esplanade ability not accept the granite domes of Yosemite or the rust-hued rocks of Zion, there's a quieter, added intricate ecosystem at play. One abounding of biodiverse marshlands, a array of baby mammals, and over 350 breed of birds (making it one of the top bristles parks for birding). Historically, the Potawatomi and Miami peoples lived abreast the dunes through the backward 1600s, afterwards which French traders confused in.

More recently, industry has threatened the aegis of these lands. Henry Cowles, a botanist from the University of Chicago, appear an commodity about the area's ecology, aggravating to accept it appointed as a civic esplanade as aboriginal as 1916. As World War I raged on, development became added of a antecedence than preservation, and the better of the dunes, Hoosier Slide, was carted abroad to accomplish bottle bake-apple jars.

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Unfortunately, bread-and-butter advance has generally been prioritized, and the esplanade is belted by a ability bulb and a animate mill. Both were planned and opened afore Indiana Dunes became a civic bank in 1966 and afore the breadth accustomed civic esplanade cachet in 2019.

The columnist on the bank (Photo: Emily Pennington)

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I wandered up the five-mile Cowles Bog Trail, accomplished marshes whispering with insects and bottomward to the basin itself. As I hiked, I approved to appearance the esplanade through a accumulative lens, apperception how the assorted plants and fungi formed calm to actualize a different and assorted ecosystem not begin elsewhere. Unseen birds warbled in the aerial branches, and my baby raced as I climbed the steep, cruel sand.

When I got to Basin Michigan, afternoon sunshine broiled my face, and several couples with dogs were arena in the water. A smoke assemblage loomed ample to my larboard like the aerial burghal of Oz. I took off my shoes, coiled my toes into sand, and biconcave my anxiety in the icy freshwater.

The esplanade larboard me activity conflicted. Crestfallen that industry has afflicted a abode of such simple adorableness and beholden that bodies who cared had managed to save what they could.

Size: 15,349 acresLocation: Northwestern Indiana, 40 afar from ChicagoCreated in: 1966 (national lakeshore), 2019 (national park)Best For: Abbreviate hikes, birding, fishing, kayaking

When to Go: If you're absorbed in baptize play, summer (59 to 82 degrees) is the prime season. Spring (31 to 69 degrees) and abatement (35 to 75 degrees) are additionally mild. Basin Michigan is acclaimed for its storms in winter, back the park's temperatures about hover at 20 to 38 degrees.

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Where to Stay: The civic esplanade operates a bivouac a abbreviate drive from the bank alleged Dunewood, while the abutting accompaniment esplanade has a abstracted bivouac nearby. I backward at Dunewood and accepted its quiet, adumbral lanes, apple-pie bathrooms, and hot showers.

Mini Adventure: Hike the Cowles Bog Trail. At 4.7 miles, it's one of the longest in the park, and additionally one of the best ecologically diverse. Saunter through brindle sunlight in the backwoods analytic for attenuate birds in different marshlands, and, finally, get discharge out assimilate the park's namesake blooming dunes that band the bank of Basin Michigan.

Mega Adventure: Tack on a appointment to abutting Indiana Dunes Accompaniment Park. Not alone is the esplanade pet-friendly, but some of the best beaches and dune admission lies aloof central its borders. Comedy in Basin Michigan, paddle the area's abounding waterways, or argue your accompany to accouterment the 3 Dune Challenge, a leg burn-inducing 1.5-mile bend with 552 anxiety of vertical accretion on abrupt sand.

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